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What do I need to do different to clean after corrosive ammo?

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  • What do I need to do different to clean after corrosive ammo?

    Is there anything I need to do different as far as cleaning, after shooting corrosive ammo?

  • #2
    just use warm or hot soapy water afterwards,then oil up

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    • #3
      Best thing is to wash/clean with windex or something with ammonia. The ammonia nullifies the corrosive salts and then you can lightly oil.
      Youth And Brawn Are No Match For Age And Treachery.
      I'm Old And May Not Fight. I'll Shoot Instead.

      USMC 1959/1963

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      • #4
        The most important thing is to use water. Boiling hot water. Some types of ammo are corrosive because of the salts in the primer compound and an oil based solvent won't dissolve salts. By scrubbing and rinsing with boiling hot water the water does a better job dissolving and then evaporates almost instantly. I would agree to oil the rifle afterwards, and would further reccomend cleaning it again the next day just to be safe.

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        • #5
          Breakfree CLP was recommended to me by the guy who got Wolf to produce a new commercial 54R 148gr noncorrosive load, and it's worked well for me. The chemistry is complex & I've failed before trying to hash it out here. Water isn't the only solvent for ionic compounds like salts (that's why people recommend windex/ammonia. which'll corrode your barrel if you're not swift with it). But you need a recommendation for anything other than those two. I trust the one I got for CLP.
          When government shifts from defining what is wrong, with the direct implication that all else is acceptable, to defining what is right, with the insidious suggestion that all else may be suspect if not subversive, then we are well on the way to a police state.<br /><br />Business, society and government all exist solely to serve the interests of the people. Of, By, For.

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          • #6
            Make sure to hit the bolt, and gas system with hot soapy water too...not just the barrel.

            If you can find some Old U.S. G.I. Rifle bore cleaner buy it and mix a quart of it with 3 quarts of mineral spirits (RBC has nitro-benzene which is not made anymore). It makes a great cleaner for corrosive ammo. Clean the barrel, bolt , and gas system with this and then put a light coat of preservative on the rifle. I use 20 Weight Synthetic Mobil 1. For the working parts of the gun I use White lithium wheelbearing grease from Wal-Mart. Stuff like CLP flys off of moving parts and does not lubricate as well. They are both cheaper than overpriced "gun" lubricants and have been tested and shown to work well.




            Tech Note


            October 10, 2004

            Technical Note 64, Alternate Cleaning and Lubrication Materials for Small Arms

            Background: ArmaLite officials conducting small arms maintenance training in an allied nation were advised that Military and Police officers often use common cooking oil as a small arms cleaner and lubricant. A 4 ounce bottle of cleaning material common in Europe or America could cost as much as a weeks income for a laborer in much of the rest of the world.

            ArmaLite is concerned that improper cleaners and lubricants could threaten the performance of its rifles in critical moments. ArmaLite’s staff has therefore conducted a preliminary study to identify inexpensive, effective small arms maintenance materials that are available worldwide.

            Findings: ArmaLite has consulted with Small Arms experts at Rock Island Arsenal and elsewhere, and has conducted preliminary evaluations of the materials they recommended:

            Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) as a cleaner and light lubricant. ATF performs admirably as a carbon remover, and protects steel surfaces excellently (“Have you ever seen a transmission that’s rusty inside?).

            Twenty weight engine oil serves in an environment that is far more strenuous than normally found in small arms so is normally quite successful. The Army authorities recommend synthetic oils such as Mobil 1. (In fact, one noted authority has used Mobil 1 as his personal firearm lubricant for over two decades.

            No safe copper remover formulation has yet been identified, but government tests reveal that copper removal provides no advantage in a standard military arm. It may serve a useful purpose in cleaning the bore of a rifle meant for extremely precise fire, such as a sniper rifle.

            Recommendations: Employ ATF as a small arms cleaning agent, and follow with 20 weight synthetic motor oil as a lubricant. Until a commonly available alternate copper solvent is identified, employ a commonly available commercial copper solvent such as Hoppe’s Number 9 on firearms intended for a high degree of accuracy.

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            • #7
              Okay, get out the soapbox, here I go again. jefferson101's corrosive ammo speech, take #9. And this will be the short version.

              Corrosive ammo is corrosive because the combustion of some elements in the powder or primer (normally the primer, if you aren't shooting black powder or earlier forms of cordite) produces various nitrate salts when burned.

              Salts, as we all know, are hygroscopic, which means that they attract and concentrate moisture from the air. This is bad juju in a firearm, because moisture causes rust.

              Thus, to keep your firearms from rusting up, one must remove those salts. Salts do not dissolve in oil. They do, however, get trapped in it.

              So, in order to remove the salts, one must pretty much remove any and all oil from any portion of the firearm that was exposed to the propellant.

              Hot and soapy water does this. The heat and soap break up the oil, and the water dissolves and removes the salts. But unless you have oil dripping from your firearms after shooting, it's probably overkill for most available ammo, which only has corrosive primers.

              Windex, or any other ammonia based window cleaner, works like a bandit, because the ammonia attacks the oil as well or better than soap does, and the water in it dissolves the salts.

              Note that for a semi-auto weapon, one has to be thorough, and detail any and all surfaces that may have propellant deposits on them. That'd include gas pistons, springs, gas tubes, and whatever else. For a bolt action rifle, the bolt, chamber, and bore are about all you need to worry about.

              But Windex does work fine. I make about a half dozen passes through the bore and chamber with a couple of soaked patches, and then clean as normal. The bolt gets sloshed off with it, and if it's a semi, the gas piston and whatnot gets it too. So does the tube. And the vent hole. (Don't forget that area!)

              Patch it all dry, and then clean and oil.

              I've been doing it that way for 10 years or so now, and haven't rusted anything up yet.

              Alle Kunst ist umsunst Wenn ein Engel auf das Zundloch brunzet (All skill is in vain if an angel pisses down the touch-hole of your musket.) Old German Folk Wisdom.

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