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  • Need a revolver expert

    I bought an old S&W model 10-7 from Aim Surplus. Used with no barrel. They stated that it originally had a 2" barrel.
    I get the pistol and its lightly used, and solid.
    I order a used 2" barrel from Gun parts thart states fits thge 10-7 and after the Covid 2 month wait they finally ship it.

    As I'm waiting for the barrel I start watching vids on how to change a barrel. There is a lot of talk of special tools, some people made their own tools, and some people use wood blocks and a vice. That last one was my favorite.

    I get the barrel and it threads in as easily as can be with only 2 fingers and doesn't stop until it hits the cylinder. Is there supposed to be a crush washer or set of shims that goes in between the frame and barrel? This barrel is a no-pin type.


    BISHOP
    The rusty wire, that holds the cork, that keeps the anger in, gives way...

  • #2
    What does the barrel say on it and what caliber is the cylinder?
    VERITAS VINCIT
    A CRUCE SALUS

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    • #3
      They came in 38s&w and 38long colt both of which had shorter cylinders than 38 special hence the barrel comes back further.
      VERITAS VINCIT
      A CRUCE SALUS

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      • #4
        Here is the diagram https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...olvers-sw/10-7
        VERITAS VINCIT
        A CRUCE SALUS

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        • #5
          Sorry for the delay. Went camping.

          The pistol is a Mod10-7. I can't find anything on the cylinder, but CAI marked the frame 38spl.
          The barrel I have says 38 S.&W. SPL.


          BISHOP
          The rusty wire, that holds the cork, that keeps the anger in, gives way...

          Comment


          • #6
            sounds like it needs to be fitted.
            VERITAS VINCIT
            A CRUCE SALUS

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            • #7
              Also, you will need to research to find out what the correct barrel-cylinder gap should be. This is from a S&W revolver inspection pdf that I found https://friedmanhandguntraining.com/...inspection.pdf

              Barrel-to-cylinder gap: The ideal B/C gap is .006”. A close gap will cause the cylinder to drag when fouled from shooting residue. A wide gap will loose muzzle velocity and may spit particles. The normal usable range is from .004~.010” Hold the cylinder to the rear and insert the thickest gap gauge that will fit between the cylinder face and the rear of the barrel (with friction). This will be the B/C gap.
              "SI *VIS *PACEM, *PARA *BELLUM"
              [URL]http://survivalblog.com[/URL]
              MOLON LABE!
              AC0XV

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              • #8
                Thanks for the help. No more info is necessary. I got ahead of myself and tried to tighten the barrel on and bent the frame.
                Its barely noticeable, but the cylinder wont close, and the hammer or trigger won't move at all.

                So now its a wall hanger.


                BISHOP
                The rusty wire, that holds the cork, that keeps the anger in, gives way...

                Comment

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