I don't believe I've ever paid much attention to how warm the base of my furnace gets. If yours is like mine, the pot sets up off the base with plenty of room beneath it. Mine sits directly on top of ceramic floor tiles I have on a table made from 2x4s and OSB with no issues, and it has sat directly on the OSB with no problem. This table is in my carport with one of those metal carport tops on it that is open on both ends and open on the sides for 5 feet up, so it gets plenty of airflow....but limits my casting during wet weather.
I don't see any problem with bolting your pot down, but I've never felt like mine was unstable in the least. If you have a full pot (mine's a 20 lb pot), it ain't going anywhere unless you try picking it up or something substantial hits it...hard. Even toward the end of the casting session when the lead is low, mine's never felt like it would tip easily....but there's nothing wrong with clamping it down if you want to be 110% sure.
I use a thermal underwear shirt folded up to drop muzzleloader balls (from dead soft pure lead) and bullets onto. When they first drop out, they will still be (extremely hot) just a little soft and prone to deformation, so the material of the shirt will cushion them and the material thermals are made from don't seem to stick to the hot lead like some towel material can.
With my cartridge bullets (from harder wheel weight/range lead/diving weights), I've been dropping them into a bucket of water on the floor to harden them. I'm still experimenting with the right lead hardness for .45 Colt and .38 Special. I may be making them too hard, which can also cause excessive leading if they're too hard to fully obturate.
I'm using regular size muffins for my ingots. I just cut the pans so that there are only two muffins to a pan and they fit under the pot/spout easier. Fill one, carefully set it aside to cool and harden (which doesn't happen quickly) while I'm filling another one. I flip them over when they look firm enough (5 mins or more) and scratch either and "S" or an "H" on them with a nail so I'll know what to use them for.
Leather welding-type gloves are your friend.
I don't see any problem with bolting your pot down, but I've never felt like mine was unstable in the least. If you have a full pot (mine's a 20 lb pot), it ain't going anywhere unless you try picking it up or something substantial hits it...hard. Even toward the end of the casting session when the lead is low, mine's never felt like it would tip easily....but there's nothing wrong with clamping it down if you want to be 110% sure.
I use a thermal underwear shirt folded up to drop muzzleloader balls (from dead soft pure lead) and bullets onto. When they first drop out, they will still be (extremely hot) just a little soft and prone to deformation, so the material of the shirt will cushion them and the material thermals are made from don't seem to stick to the hot lead like some towel material can.
With my cartridge bullets (from harder wheel weight/range lead/diving weights), I've been dropping them into a bucket of water on the floor to harden them. I'm still experimenting with the right lead hardness for .45 Colt and .38 Special. I may be making them too hard, which can also cause excessive leading if they're too hard to fully obturate.
I'm using regular size muffins for my ingots. I just cut the pans so that there are only two muffins to a pan and they fit under the pot/spout easier. Fill one, carefully set it aside to cool and harden (which doesn't happen quickly) while I'm filling another one. I flip them over when they look firm enough (5 mins or more) and scratch either and "S" or an "H" on them with a nail so I'll know what to use them for.
Leather welding-type gloves are your friend.
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