I've been working on my old CETME, mainly adding a scope, installing new rollers to bring the bolt gap farther in to spec, etc.
The Brugger & Thomet scope mount I installed last week looks likes it's going to work out great, and I installed the scope that I bought a few years ago and had on my AR-15 MK-2 Mod 0 sorts-clone, but I decided it was too much glass for a rifle that launches such a tiny bullet - looked like it was being sexually molested by a Bazooka. Anyway, the CETME was built back about 30 years ago on a brand-new parts kit, so it should have a pretty good chance at being accurate, and it's 7.62 NATO.
My latest effort was building a buttstock cheek riser out of Kydex. This was my first try at working with Kydex, and I think it turned out pretty good! That Kydex stuff is every bit as easy and friendly to work with as they say it is. Now I'm looking for something else to make.



I think I might have to shift the top of the cheekpiece over to the right a tiny bit to get my eye more centered behind the scope. And after I'm sure I won't be taking it off and on any more, I'll paint all of the stainless hardware flat black. As you can see, I did cut an opening to allow for the standard Mauser-type sling, and I utilize the two pin holes provided for storing the take down pins when you field strip the rifle. The pin bushings were pretty much exactly 1/4" diameter.
The Brugger & Thomet scope mount I installed last week looks likes it's going to work out great, and I installed the scope that I bought a few years ago and had on my AR-15 MK-2 Mod 0 sorts-clone, but I decided it was too much glass for a rifle that launches such a tiny bullet - looked like it was being sexually molested by a Bazooka. Anyway, the CETME was built back about 30 years ago on a brand-new parts kit, so it should have a pretty good chance at being accurate, and it's 7.62 NATO.
My latest effort was building a buttstock cheek riser out of Kydex. This was my first try at working with Kydex, and I think it turned out pretty good! That Kydex stuff is every bit as easy and friendly to work with as they say it is. Now I'm looking for something else to make.



I think I might have to shift the top of the cheekpiece over to the right a tiny bit to get my eye more centered behind the scope. And after I'm sure I won't be taking it off and on any more, I'll paint all of the stainless hardware flat black. As you can see, I did cut an opening to allow for the standard Mauser-type sling, and I utilize the two pin holes provided for storing the take down pins when you field strip the rifle. The pin bushings were pretty much exactly 1/4" diameter.
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