Cleaning Up An Old S&W Model 10-5

[Led]

Re: Cleaning Up An Old S&W Model 10-5

Well, I guess I'm not going to worry about the rust. I'll just make sure to keep it rubbed down with oil, which should keep it from progressing. It looks like it's only from handling over the 45 or so years that this revolver has been around, but it's honest wear and part of it's history.

Yup!! Clean it up the best you can, WITHOUT ruining the nearby finish!! Keep it oiled and in a dry spot from now on......

I have a Colt Trooper .22 that the barrel hit the knurled hammer of my Model 29.........and it left a couple of nicks in it. I was absolutely sick about it. I dabbed some "Cold Blue" on it, and keep it oiled. But you can still see the nicks.........

I KNOW........if I tried to "repair" those nicks, I would have completely ruined the weapon!!! Sometimes the better part of valor, is knowing when NOT to exert any!!!!

She may have some stories to tell, and you don't want to ruin it!!!

[Chief351]

Re: Cleaning Up An Old S&W Model 10-5

Well, I guess I'm not going to worry about the rust. I'll just make sure to keep it rubbed down with oil, which should keep it from progressing. It looks like it's only from handling over the 45 or so years that this revolver has been around, but it's honest wear and part of it's history.

[paintballmagnet]

Re: Cleaning Up An Old S&W Model 10-5

I've used Kroil as well but have then lightly scraped rust spots with a penny...a real copper penny, not the newer plated versions.

[CMV]

Re: Cleaning Up An Old S&W Model 10-5

In lieu of 0000 or copper wool (not familiar with copper wool - assuming you did not mean a chore boy!), I'd recommend white scotchbright pad. It's less aggressive than 0000 by a lot

[CMV]

Re: Cleaning Up An Old S&W Model 10-5

My first step would be to get it really clean. Rub with Kroil with just a rag & some pressure until you aren't getting discoloration on the rag. Then strip all oil from the metal. Denatured alcohol & then acetone will do well. If you want to remove the cylinder, put it in the oven at about 225-250 for an hour & then let it cool. This will let the metal 'sweat out' oil & contaminates. Then another good acetone wipedown. Otherwise, just let it set for a couple days in your garage or attic - somewhere nice & warm this time of year. Then do the 2nd acetone. I wouldn't put the whole assembled gun in the oven - it will sweat oil from everywhere if you don't detail strip it and do the alcohol/acetone steps first.

That might remove your discoloration. But you will then see if there is any pitting or what needs to happen to get the finish right.

[Chief351]

A couple of years ago I purchased used a S&W Model 10-5, which I believe was made in the mid 1960s. It's blued, round butt, and has a 4" tapered and pinned barrel. Finish on the frame is probably 99%, with just a little holster wear at the muzzle and a little thin corrosion on the bottom of the trigger guard. The cylinder has, however, some faint "gray spots" between the flutes, which I guess is corrosion there as well - maybe where it was handled opening and closing the cylinder.

When I got it it came with Pachmayer rubber grips. I would have preferred that it had the original wood stocks, of course, but beggars can't be choosers - I hear tell that gun shops used to have barrels of original revolver wood stocks that that they took off in order to install rubber "combat" grips at their customers' behest,which likely ended up being burned in the potbelly stove to heat the shop.

Today I managed to score a set of factory S&W replacement wood stocks for it, which has resurrected my interest in this sweet-shooting old revolver.

My question is: What's the best way to deal with this corrosion? For the little bit of "orange" that was showing on the trigger guard, I lightly polished it with copper wool and oil. I don't know how to handle the "gray spots" on the cylinder, however.