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M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

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  • M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

    my M1D is complete with the Lyman Alaskan scope that has the std post recticle !question on sighting in the scope and procedure to shoot different ranges. so far I have mine setup to 100 yds with 150 grain ball. however when I was shooting 400 yds, I had to Kentucky windage the scope! it gets tricky because my spotter keep telling me I am hitting consistently on the left.

    so, since the M1D has the scope mounted to the left. when we calculating trajectory of our ammo at differnt rnages, do we have windage issue at different ranges??? or it is similar to a top mounted scope that we worry about only the elevation and not the windage.??

    Thanks




    DaveC

  • #2
    Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

    ...that has the std post recticle...

    I think I found your problem! Using the FAL's British SUIT sight with inverted post, the Russian PSO with post, the Russian PU with post...I can't hit a damned thing!

    The M1D with M84 was set for 300 yards collimation/coincident. Parallax will move the impact point at longer and shorter ranges.

    That's a beautiful M1D! Old Weavers and Lymans are fun to shoot with.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

      Thanks Campy bob! took some effort 2 find the scope and every accessories! so hard to find nowadays! people want your 2nd born for those stuff.

      does that mean I should sight in at 300 yds?? reading some of the sight in procedure of the M1, there is a near zero of 25 yds which pertains to far zero of 200 yds! does that goes with the scope??



      DaveC

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

        IIRC, 300 yards was the military zero distance for the M1D with M84 telescope. The old Lyman should be good for that far...in reasonable daylight.

        The term 'sniper rifle' had a different meaning in 1955. No way would an issue M1D run with the latest generation of space gun snipers.

        While a perfectly bedded and tweaked 1903A4 or M1C/M1D WILL shoot...especially with handloads...the improvements in modern optics, 'chassis systems', barrels and triggers run circles around the classic walnut and blued steel war warriors.

        I know there is a cheapo (probably Chinese!) M84 clone on the market for around $400. I 'think' I remember reading about a faux Alaskan/M73B1 on the market, but I don't know if it's still available. The Gibb's '03A4 clone rifle uses them.

        The originals, especially the ones with good lenses, are really getting hard to find and thus are commanding high prices.

        The M73 became the M81 with the addition of the eye cup and a sunshade.

        The old scopes are just plain fun to shoot with though. I have an old Weaver that is so yellowed and internally filthy that I can only shoot it in certain lighting conditions and it's still a hoot to see what I can hit with that old relic.

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        • #5
          Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

          rgr on that.. 300 yds...

          Yes U are right, the M84 scope are so hard to find and everyone wants so much for it... I was lucky to find me a Lyman Alaskan.. this one is not B prefix but I guess for the price I paid it is definitely worth ...especially a clone M84 is like $399. I think its crazy for a clone.

          Just loaded up 50 rds of 150 grain FMJ to shoot this coming weekend. may also bring out my 1903A3 to give it a buzz...

          We have a good Militaria show in Ft worth this weekend. will go checkout for any goodies.

          DaveC

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

            may also bring out my 1903A3 to give it a buzz...

            Nothing finer than an old 4-groove or 5-groove Remington IMO! If I'm shooting military irons, I'm choosing the '03A3!

            I still want to add an A4 to the collection of shooters...though maybe with a conventional crosshair reticle.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

              may also bring out my 1903A3 to give it a buzz...

              Nothing finer than an old 4-groove or 5-groove Remington IMO! If I'm shooting military irons, I'm choosing the '03A3!

              I still want to add an A4 to the collection of shooters...though maybe with a conventional crosshair reticle.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

                Originally posted by davechng View Post
                my M1D is complete with the Lyman Alaskan scope that has the std post recticle !question on sighting in the scope and procedure to shoot different ranges. so far I have mine setup to 100 yds with 150 grain ball. however when I was shooting 400 yds, I had to Kentucky windage the scope! it gets tricky because my spotter keep telling me I am hitting consistently on the left.

                so, since the M1D has the scope mounted to the left. when we calculating trajectory of our ammo at differnt rnages, do we have windage issue at different ranges??? or it is similar to a top mounted scope that we worry about only the elevation and not the windage.??

                Thanks



                DaveC
                Good questions, here are the things to consider

                Your M1 has built in bullet drop on your rear sight is is called range. Each click is 1 MOA of adjustment e.g. 1" at 100 yards (of course you already knew that). But adjusting your scope 1 click (MOA) for your corresponding ranges is also required. So if you have zeroed your scopes elevation for 100 yards and you are going to say 400 yards you will need to set your elevation UP 15 to 16 clicks just as you would your rear sight to hit 400 yards.

                Your windage also needs to be adjusted in order to keep your cross hairs with bullet strike. Since the M1D is offset to the left you just need to do the math.

                There is another way to do it though. That is keeping your scope zero exactly the same distance on the target as it is at the muzzle. e.g. your scope is 2 inches above bore offset 1 inch to the left. so if you aim dead center in the scope to bulls eye (only adjusting elevation x number of clicks) your bullets will be 2 inches down 1 inch to the right.

                Either way you have to adjust elevation on your scope to hit a target at each range. Your rear sight should be calibrated for 150 grain M2 ball at 2740 fps at muzzle

                So if you are shooting M2 ball or equivilent use a ballistics program to get you bullet drop and corresponding MOA adjustments (but remember you have to round up because the lyman alaskan is 1 MOA per click so you will be off a tad at every range

                The lyman is not self rezeroing so you will have to first map out your initial 100 yard zero. And then from there keep a track record on how many clicks elevation/windage for each range thereafter and back and forth. You will be able to go from 600 to 300 to 800 with ease as long as you keep that record.

                Also note that if you change ammo all of your adjustments will change. so it is better to find an ammo load you like and stick with it. Best bet is find as much M72 173 grain match ammo you can and reload it. i ran ballistics program with 173 M72 match and sierra 168 grain match with same velocity and that matched up. but 150 grain M2 ball was way off

                Hope this helps your question. I have seen many posts like this and if you were not trained on military sights it is not something normally thought of.


                duane
                Last edited by abnderby; March 3, 2013, 18:19.

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                • #9
                  Re: M1D with Lyman Alaskan Scope setup question

                  oh yeah have you tought about glass bedding and free floating your operation rod, barrel, and both hand guards? if not (and your rifle is not a safe queen collectable) you just might want to do that.

                  since mine isnt i rebarreled with a match grade G.I. contour glass bedded brand new wood (to NM bedding specs) free floated barrel and op rod floated the hand guards. Basically building a D model the way the army did the M21 from a match grade M14 then to sniper.

                  happy shooting

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